Common Washer and Dryer Problems We Fix

Laundry machines vibrate, spin at high speeds, and generate heat. This physical stress leads to wear and tear over time. We frequently encounter specific issues in Tewksbury homes. Here is a breakdown of the problems we see and how we resolve them.

Washer Is Not Draining

You open the lid to find your clothes floating in a tub of grey water. This is a common and messy problem. It often triggers an error code and prevents the machine from spinning, leaving your laundry soaking wet.

Likely causes:

• Clogged drain pump filter (coins, socks, lint)
• Failed drain pump motor
• Broken lid switch
• Kinked drain hose behind the unit
• Worn drive belt
• Obstructed house plumbing

How we diagnose it:

We first inspect the coin trap or filter for physical blockages. We then test the pump motor to see if it is receiving power but failing to turn. We also check the lid switch, as many washers will not drain if they think the lid is open.

What you can do right now:

Check the drain hose behind the washer to make sure it is not crushed against the wall. If you have a front loader with an accessible filter door, try to clear the debris, but be prepared for water to spill out.

Dryer Is Not Heating

The drum spins and the air blows, but your clothes come out cold and damp. This is the most frequent dryer issue we fix. It turns a one hour chore into a day long ordeal.

Likely causes:

• Blown thermal fuse
• Burnt out heating element (electric)
• Failed gas valve coils (gas)
• Bad igniter or flame sensor (gas)
• Tripped circuit breaker
• Clogged vent causing overheating

How we diagnose it:

For electric dryers, we test the element for continuity. For gas dryers, we observe the ignition sequence to see if the igniter glows and if the gas valve snaps open. We also check thermal fuses, which are safety devices that blow when the vent is clogged.

What you can do right now:

Check your breaker panel. Electric dryers have two fuses; if one trips, the motor might run but the heat will not turn on. Also, check your lint trap and the external vent hood for blockages.

Washer Is Shaking or Walking

A washer that bangs loudly or moves across the floor during the spin cycle is alarming. It can damage your floor and pull hoses loose, leading to leaks. It usually indicates a suspension failure.

Likely causes:

• Worn suspension rods
• Broken shock absorbers
• Stretched tub springs
• Uneven legs
• Broken balance ring

How we diagnose it:

We push down on the tub to test the recoil of the suspension rods. We also inspect the shock absorbers at the bottom of the unit. We verify that the machine is level on the floor and that the lock nuts on the feet are tight.

What you can do right now:

Try to redistribute the load inside the drum manually. If you are washing a single heavy item like a rug, add towels to balance the weight. Ensure the machine is sitting flat on all four feet.

Dryer Making Loud Noises

Squeaking, thumping, or rumbling noises coming from your dryer are not normal. They indicate that the mechanical support system for the heavy drum is failing.

Likely causes:

• Worn drum rollers
• Idler pulley failure
• Worn drum bearing or glide
• Blower wheel obstruction
• Drive belt fraying

How we diagnose it:

We disassemble the cabinet to inspect the rollers and axles for wear. We spin the drum by hand to listen for the source of the squeak. We also check the blower wheel for trapped objects like pens or toys.

What you can do right now:

Check the inside of the drum for loose change or buttons caught in the baffles. Stop using the dryer if the noise is metallic and grinding, as this can wear a hole in the drum.

Washer Leaking Water

Puddles around your washing machine can cause significant water damage to your home, especially if the laundry room is on a second floor. Leaks can occur during the fill, wash, or drain cycles.

Likely causes:

• Cracked fill hoses
• Loose drain hose connection
• Leaking tub seal
• Damaged door boot seal (front loaders)
• Water inlet valve failure
• Internal pump leak

How we diagnose it:

We run the machine and watch for the exact moment the water appears. If it leaks while filling, we check the valve and hoses. If it leaks while spinning, we check the tub seal or drain pump. We inspect the rubber door boot for small tears caused by zippers.

What you can do right now:

Turn off the water supply valves behind the washer immediately. Check the connection points where the hoses screw into the wall and the machine to see if they are loose.

Washer Smells Bad

A mildew or rotten egg smell coming from your washer transfers to your clean clothes. This is particularly common in front loading machines that seal tightly.

Likely causes:

• Mold growth behind the door gasket
• Soap scum buildup in the outer tub
• Clogged drain filter
• Using too much detergent
• Cold water washing only

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the folds of the door gasket for black mold. We check the drain pump filter for trapped organic matter. We also assess your detergent usage habits.

What you can do right now:

Run a hot cycle with a washing machine cleaner or bleach. Leave the door open between washes to allow the tub to dry out completely.

Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry

If you have to run the dryer two or three times to get clothes dry, it is a sign of restricted airflow or weak heating. This wastes energy and puts unnecessary wear on your clothes.

Likely causes:

• Clogged dryer vent duct
• Crushed transition hose
• Cycling thermostat failure
• Moisture sensor coated in softener
• Blower wheel loose

How we diagnose it:

We measure the airflow at the external vent. We check the temperature of the exhaust air. We also inspect the moisture sensor bars inside the drum to see if they are detecting humidity accurately.

What you can do right now:

Clean the lint screen before every load. Check the flexible hose behind the dryer to ensure it is not crushed. If the vent cap outside is clogged with lint, clear it out.

Washer Won’t Spin or Agitate

The washer fills and drains, but the clothes sit wet and motionless. Without the high speed spin, your dryer has to work twice as hard.

Likely causes:

• Broken lid switch
• Worn motor coupler
• Broken drive belt
• Shift actuator failure
• Motor control board failure

How we diagnose it:

We listen for the motor humming. If the motor runs but the tub does not move, it is often a coupler or belt issue. If the motor does not run at all, we test the lid switch and the capacitor.

What you can do right now:

Listen for a click when you close the lid. If the lid switch is broken, the machine will not allow the spin cycle to start for safety reasons.